How Milan’s Legendary Pasticceria Became the Hamptons’ Defining Italian Table

The gelato was rumored to be the best outside of Italy. When Hans and Francesca Pauli opened Sant Ambroeus Southampton in 1992, they weren’t trying to start a restaurant empire. They simply couldn’t find a proper cappuccino anywhere near their summer home. Consequently, they brought Milan’s most celebrated café to Main Street, and three decades later, the black-and-white striped chairs and vine-covered patio have become as synonymous with Hamptons summers as hedgerows and hydrangeas.

However, Sant Ambroeus Southampton represents more than imported espresso. It’s the East End outpost of a brand that traces its origins to 1936 Milan, where two pastry chefs opened a confetteria steps from Teatro La Scala. Furthermore, it’s living proof that the Hamptons’ appetite for European sophistication has only deepened with time.

The Origin Story of Sant Ambroeus

Born in the Shadow of La Scala

In 1936, two pastry chefs from the Cattaneo family joined forces to open a café in Milan’s fashion district. They named it after Sant’Ambrogio, the city’s patron saint, using the Milanese dialect version: Sant Ambroeus. Subsequently, a devoted following emerged among Milan’s intelligentsia, who gathered beneath chandeliers for perfectly pulled espresso and cornetti fresh from the oven.

The location—Corso Matteotti, near the legendary opera house—guaranteed an audience of celebrities, nobility, and intellectuals. Moreover, the pasticceria’s reputation for quality attracted admirers who would become lifelong devotees. Among them were Hans Pauli, a German national, and his Milanese wife, Francesca.

The Paulis Take Manhattan

Hans and Francesca Pauli acquired the Milan operation and, in 1982, brought Sant Ambroeus across the Atlantic to Madison Avenue. The location—1000 Madison, between 77th and 78th Streets—placed the café squarely in Upper East Side gallery territory. Consequently, it became the morning congregation point for art dealers who appreciated both the espresso and the enforced discretion.

“One went there for the privacy and the silence,” recalled Robert Pincus-Witten, then director of exhibitions at C&M Arts. “Part of the silence came from the fact that seated at the next table was another art dealer.” Indeed, the challenge became being witty without being revealing. Meanwhile, the gelato earned a reputation as the finest outside Italy itself.

The Southampton Imperative

By 1992, the Paulis had established their summer residence in Southampton. However, they faced a problem that seemed almost absurd given their credentials: they couldn’t find a proper Italian café anywhere on the East End. “I was vacationing there and couldn’t find a place for Italian cuisine, a good cappuccino, and an espresso bar like there is in Manhattan,” Dimitri Pauli, their son, later explained to The Daily Front Row.

Additionally, their Manhattan clients felt the same frustration. This gave the Paulis the push they needed to open Sant Ambroeus Southampton at 30 Main Street. Furthermore, the timing proved perfect—the early 1990s Hamptons craved exactly this kind of European authenticity.

The Transformation Into a Hamptons Institution

The Madison Avenue Drama

The path from Madison Avenue to Main Street wasn’t entirely smooth. In 2001, the Paulis sold the Manhattan flagship to Fauchon, the Parisian luxury food company. The New York Times called the transaction “a tempest in a cappuccino cup.” Subsequently, legions of loyal customers mourned the loss of their perfectly poached eggs.

However, by 2004, Fauchon was closing the location. Dimitri Pauli swooped in to reopen Sant Ambroeus in the same spot. Meanwhile, the Southampton outpost had continued thriving under Francesca’s formidable supervision. Together with business partner Gherardo Guarducci, Dimitri established SA Hospitality Group in 2003, building the empire that now spans locations from Palm Beach to Aspen.

Madame’s Era

Those who knew Sant Ambroeus Southampton in its early decades remember “Madame”—Francesca Pauli—as the force behind its exacting standards. She ran the show with unmistakable authority. “If ‘Madame’ wasn’t shouting at him, she was admonishing somebody,” recalled one longtime observer for Edible East End, “but she was always gracious to her clientele.”

Her European clientele arrived by 10 AM for apricot croissants and espresso. They returned for what many considered the best shaved artichoke salad and milk-fed veal on Long Island. Consequently, standards never slipped. Hans Pauli passed away in 2017 at age 76, and Francesca retired shortly after. Nevertheless, their legacy persists in every perfectly steamed cappuccino.

The Robert McKinley Reimagining

The Southampton location has been recently reimagined by designer Robert McKinley, whose portfolio includes the Surf Lodge and Ruschmeyer’s in Montauk. Natural linen curtains now bring warmth to the elegant atmosphere. Additionally, photographs from Clifford Ross’s Hurricane series—the renowned artist’s dramatic images of massive waves—complement the coastal setting.

The interior dining room features ivory leather banquettes and the iconic black-and-white striped chairs that have become Sant Ambroeus’s visual signature. Furthermore, the vine-covered patio remains secluded from Main Street’s bustle, accessible through a cozy private lane. It’s the perfect venue for intimate gatherings where forty guests might share an unforgettable summer dinner.

What Makes Sant Ambroeus Southampton Iconic

The Cotoletta alla Milanese

Ask the kitchen what customers fawn over most, and the answer comes immediately: Cotoletta alla Milanese. This breaded veal cutlet connects directly to Milanese history stretching back eight centuries. Historians cite references to “lombolos cum panitio” in a 1148 document from Milan’s Sant’Ambrogio Basilica—making it one of the world’s oldest documented recipes.

At Sant Ambroeus Southampton, the cutlet arrives golden and crisp, fried in clarified butter according to tradition. It’s the dish that Austrians supposedly encountered during their occupation of Lombardy and renamed Wiener Schnitzel. Consequently, ordering it here feels like participating in a culinary argument that’s lasted two centuries.

The Principessa Cake

If the cotoletta represents savory heritage, the Principessa cake embodies Sant Ambroeus’s pastry pedigree. This bright lemon sponge cake layers vanilla pastry cream and whipped cream beneath pink almond marzipan. Furthermore, it’s become the birthday cake of choice for Hamptons hostesses who understand that some celebrations require Milanese elegance.

The gelato remains legendary as well—over sixteen flavors including panettone, croccantino, and the mint chocolate chip that Food Network specifically recommends. Additionally, the cornetti filled with vanilla cream arrive fresh each morning, their non-greasy texture distinguishing them from lesser imitations.

The Cappuccino Standard

Multiple sources confirm what regulars already know: Sant Ambroeus serves the best cappuccino in the Hamptons. Some argue it’s the best in New York State. The espresso pulls with precise pressure; the milk steams to exact temperature. Consequently, the morning ritual of caffeine and cornetto has become quasi-religious for summer residents.

“Still the best (only?) place in the area for a spotless cappuccino,” noted one longtime visitor on Foursquare, capturing both the excellence and the absence of serious competition. Indeed, Sant Ambroeus Southampton set a standard that few have attempted to match.

Experience Sant Ambroeus Southampton Today

What to Order

Beyond the cotoletta, insiders recommend the branzino alla griglia—locally sourced and prepared with the restraint that defines Milanese cooking. The vitello tonnato delivers cold sliced veal with tuna sauce, a classic that rewards those who trust tradition. Additionally, the linguine alle vongole showcases the kitchen’s respect for fresh local ingredients.

For brunch, the organic eggs any style with Applewood bacon demonstrate that Italian technique elevates American breakfast staples. Meanwhile, the yogurt parfait with homemade granola offers lighter sustenance before beach excursions. Furthermore, don’t skip the chocolate mousse cake—layers of moist chocolate almond sponge soaked in light rum syrup.

When to Go

Sant Ambroeus Southampton opens at 8 AM on weekends, 9 AM weekdays, closing at 10 PM most nights and 11 PM Friday and Saturday. Consequently, the rhythm accommodates everything from pre-beach cappuccinos to post-gallery dinners. The restaurant closes briefly mid-February through mid-March, making its return a signal that Hamptons season approaches.

Summer weekends demand reservations, particularly for the vine-covered patio. However, midweek lunches offer more relaxed pacing. Additionally, the shoulder seasons—May and October—provide the pleasures without the crowds.

The Insider Move

The Insider’s Take: Request seating in the private lane patio, where the vine canopy creates genuine seclusion from Main Street’s parade. Furthermore, the kitchen sources local sea scallops, striped bass, and baby calamari from nearby waters—ask what’s freshest. The hazelnut gelato pairs unexpectedly well with espresso as an afternoon pick-me-up. Additionally, the Gianduia cake offers chocolate lovers an alternative to the Principessa.

The Legacy of Sant Ambroeus Southampton

Three Generations of Excellence

Sant Ambroeus approaches its 90th anniversary as a global brand. The Southampton success informed expansion to Palm Beach. Additionally, SA Hospitality Group recently reacquired the original Milan location, bringing the story full circle. CEO Federico Turconi envisions further growth—Beverly Hills, Texas, perhaps a Sant Ambroeus hotel someday.

“We are not a chain that can open 40 restaurants,” Turconi told Dan’s Papers, “but we aim to cover the most significant international markets.” The approach remains organic, each location an homage to its neighborhood. Consequently, Sant Ambroeus Southampton retains the coastal ease that distinguished it from the Madison Avenue flagship.

Why It Endures

In an era when thick linen tablecloths and proper silverware have become rarities, Sant Ambroeus Southampton offers the exception. Service remains weightless yet attentive. Food arrives prepared from scratch, never assembled from components. Furthermore, the commitment to quality ingredients—from milk-fed veal to locally sourced seafood—has never wavered.

“There are two or three restaurants on the South Fork where the clientele is guaranteed to be served consistently with excellent table service, and fresh food, prepared from scratch,” observed Edible East End. “Sant Ambroeus is one of these three places.”

The striped chairs remain. The cappuccinos still steam to perfection. And every summer, a new generation discovers what Hans and Francesca Pauli understood in 1992: the Hamptons deserved Milan’s best. At Sant Ambroeus Southampton, it still arrives daily.

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