The Restaurant That Taught the Hamptons to Eat

The first guest through the door was Craig Claiborne. It was August 3, 1988, and Nick & Toni’s East Hampton hadn’t even announced its opening. The retired New York Times food critic walked in, seated himself at his favorite table from the previous tenant, and ordered dinner. He came back the next week. And the week after that. Thirty-seven summers later, the wood-burning oven still hasn’t cooled.

This is the story of how a tiny restaurant on North Main Street became the standard against which every Hamptons dining room is measured. It’s a story about love, loss, tomatoes, and the radical idea that the East End deserved better than what it was getting.

The Love Story Behind the Legend

Nick & Toni’s exists because two people fell in love in Italy.

Toni Ross was an artist. Jeff Salaway was a dreamer everyone called Nick. They met overseas and discovered a shared obsession. Both were captivated by how Italians approached food. Seasonal ingredients. Local sourcing. Recipes unchanged for generations. Simple preparations that let quality speak for itself.

They returned to Long Island with a conviction. The Hamptons, for all its wealth, had no idea what it was missing. Fine dining meant fussy dining. Nobody was cooking with ingredients from the farm down the road. Nobody was letting a perfect tomato be a perfect tomato.

Finding the Space

The building on North Main Street was not promising. Previous tenants had come and gone. The floors needed work. The walls needed more work. Most people saw a money pit.

Nick saw potential. He saw bones. He saw a place where something real could happen.

Moreover, he saw the land behind the building. That patch of dirt would become the restaurant’s secret weapon. Nick rototilled it himself—skinny legs, boots, shorts, turning soil that would yield herbs and vegetables for decades to come.

Opening Night

They chose not to announce the opening. August in the Hamptons meant crowds. Crowds meant chaos. Better to start quietly and work out the kinks.

Then Claiborne walked in.

The legendary critic had shaped American dining for decades. His presence on opening night was either a blessing or a death sentence. There would be no hiding.

As it turned out, Claiborne became one of their earliest champions. He returned often with friends in tow. He offered critiques—not just about food, but about service, pacing, everything. It was like having a private masterclass from the most important voice in American restaurants.

What Makes Nick & Toni’s Singular

Dozens of restaurants have tried to replicate the Nick & Toni’s formula. None have succeeded. The reason isn’t complicated. It just can’t be faked.

The Garden

That plot Nick rototilled in 1988 still produces today. The one-acre organic garden supplies herbs, vegetables, and the philosophical foundation for everything that happens in the kitchen.

You won’t find tomatoes on the menu in February. You won’t find ingredients flown in from distant continents. What grows nearby, what swims nearby, what’s in season right now—that’s the menu.

This approach seems obvious today. In 1988, it was revolutionary.

The Wood-Burning Oven

The oven is the kitchen’s soul. Pizzas emerge with char and chew. Whole fish come out impossibly moist, skin crackling. Vegetables achieve a depth that no conventional oven can match.

Executive Chef Joe Realmuto has commanded this kitchen for three decades. He arrived in 1994 as a line cook. By 1996, he was running the show. His philosophy mirrors the founders’ vision: less is more. Three perfect ingredients beat fifteen mediocre ones every time.

The Relationships

Nick & Toni’s didn’t just source locally. The restaurant helped build the local food economy.

Amber Waves Farm. Quail Hill Farm. Braun Seafood. These weren’t vendors. They were partners. The restaurant’s success created demand that helped small producers thrive. Scott Chaskey of Quail Hill became a mentor, helping expand the on-site garden.

This network of relationships can’t be replicated by a newcomer. It was built over decades of shared summers, shared risks, and shared commitment.

The Scene: Celebrities, Critics, and Corner Tables

Nick & Toni’s earned its reputation the hard way. No publicist manufactured the buzz. The dining room filled because word spread. And word spreads fast in the Hamptons.

Critical Acclaim

Ruth Reichl awarded the restaurant two stars in the New York Times during the mid-1990s. GQ bestowed its Golden Dish Award. Food & Wine declared it the best Italian restaurant on the East End.

Gael Greene of New York Magazine captured the devotion best. She wrote that she had practically leased a table at Nick & Toni’s. The crew meshed as if they’d been working together forever—because many of them had.

The Regulars

Naming names feels beside the point here. Yes, boldface names fill the dining room on summer Saturdays. Yes, you might recognize the person at the next table from a magazine cover or movie screen.

But the real regulars are the families who’ve been coming for three generations. The couples who got engaged in the garden room and now bring their children. The artists and writers who treat it like a canteen.

The celebrity presence matters less than the consistency. Famous faces come because they know what they’ll get: excellent food, professional service, and a room that doesn’t make a fuss about who’s in it.

The Tragedy and the Continuation

Jeff Salaway—Nick himself—passed away years ago. His death could have ended the story. Instead, it deepened the commitment.

Toni Ross continued the vision. Managing partner Mark Smith, who joined in the mid-1990s, helped expand thoughtfully. The team opened sister restaurants: Rowdy Hall in East Hampton, Townline BBQ in Sagaponack, La Fondita in Amagansett, and Coche Comedor. All operate under Honest Man Hospitality.

Each new venture carries the same DNA. Local sourcing. Honest cooking. No shortcuts.

Summer 2026: What to Expect

Nick & Toni’s enters its thirty-eighth summer with nothing to prove and no reason to coast.

The Menu Evolution

Expect continued refinement rather than reinvention. Chef Realmuto and his team will showcase whatever the garden and local waters provide. The wood-burning oven specials remain essential. The penne alla vecchia bettola—that vodka-sauce legend—isn’t going anywhere.

Seasonal additions will reflect what’s thriving in the garden. Summer 2025 saw expanded vegetable preparations that highlighted the farm’s range. That direction should continue.

Reservations: The Strategy

Here’s the truth: getting a Saturday reservation in July requires planning.

Book two to three weeks ahead for prime weekend slots. Thursday and Sunday offer slightly better odds. Early week is the insider move—same kitchen, same quality, fraction of the wait.

Walk-ins are possible but not guaranteed. The bar area accommodates guests waiting for tables. A drink and some patience can work in your favor.

The Tables to Know

The garden room delivers atmosphere and relative quiet. The main dining room offers energy and people-watching. The bar works for solo diners and spontaneous visits.

Request your preference when booking. The staff accommodates when possible. They’ve been doing this longer than most restaurants have existed.

The Vitals

Detail Information
Established 1988
Location 136 North Main Street, East Hampton
Cuisine Italian, Mediterranean, Farm-to-Table
Price Point $$$ (Dinner for two: $150-250)
Reservations Resy, OpenTable, or call directly
Hours Wednesday–Monday, 5:30pm onwards (seasonal)

The Order

Penne alla Vecchia Bettola — The signature. Vodka sauce done with conviction. Order it at least once.

Wood-Fired Whole Fish — Market selection, simply prepared. Ask your server what’s swimming.

Zucchini Chips — You’ll say they’re for the table. You’ll eat them all yourself.

Black Mission Fig Salad — Prosciutto, arugula, walnuts, aged balsamic. Seasonal and essential.

The Move

Arrive at 6pm on a Wednesday. The room is alive but not frantic. Request the garden room if conversation matters. Request the main room if energy matters. Start with the zucchini chips and a glass from their Italian-heavy wine list. Let your server guide the rest—they’ve seen every dietary restriction and preference imaginable. Skip dessert if you’re full; don’t skip the wood-oven dishes under any circumstances. Dress smart casual. Leave your status at the door. The room doesn’t care who you are. It cares whether you appreciate what’s on the plate.

The Timeline

1988 — Toni Ross and Jeff “Nick” Salaway open Nick & Toni’s on North Main Street

1988 — Craig Claiborne becomes an early regular and champion

1994 — Joe Realmuto joins as line cook; begins three-decade tenure

1996 — Realmuto promoted to Executive Chef; Ruth Reichl awards two stars

1996 — Food & Wine names it best Italian restaurant on the East End

2000s — Expansion begins: Rowdy Hall, Townline BBQ, La Fondita follow

2023 — Restaurant celebrates 35th anniversary with charitable donations

2026 — Thirty-eighth summer season begins

The Quote

“The goal in the very beginning was to present authentic food from a region of Italy we felt wasn’t being represented here on the East End.” — Toni Ross, Co-Founder

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