The Lunch That Runs the Hamptons
Picture this: Saturday, 1pm. The terrace at Le Bilboquet Sag Harbor is already full. Sunglasses work harder than business cards here, and rosé flows like currency. Meanwhile, a woman in Louboutins approaches the hostess stand with her date. Unfortunately for them, they don’t get in. At the next table, someone whispers they wanted “more of a Hamptons look.” Minutes later, a British couple arrives with similar confidence. However, the maître d’ simply glances down, points at the gentleman’s flip-flops, and walks away without a word.
This is lunch at Le Bilboquet Sag Harbor. The food is French, the setting is waterfront, and the rules are absolute. Since 2017, this marina-side restaurant has operated as summer court for Manhattan’s most discerning residents. Notably, getting a table requires more than money. Instead, it requires understanding how the game is played.
A French Bon Vivant’s American Dream
Le Bilboquet Sag Harbor exists because Philippe Delgrange understood something essential about New York. Specifically, he recognized that dining isn’t just eating—it’s theater.
The Making of Philippe Delgrange
Delgrange grew up in Cambrai, France, just north of Paris in the Nord-Pas-de-Calais region. Remarkably, at just fourteen years old, he started working in restaurants. In fact, his parents had to secure a special work permit signed by Charles de Gaulle himself. By eighteen, the ambitious young man had crossed the Atlantic to chase his dreams.
Initially, his early years in America weren’t glamorous. First, Delgrange worked in a perfume factory. Then, he took various odd jobs to survive. Nevertheless, he persevered. Eventually, the New York club scene of the 1970s ignited, and everything changed for him.
His hospitality education began at the infamous Atrium Club. Shortly thereafter, legendary nightclub owner Regine came calling. Subsequently, he landed at Le Relais, one of Madison Avenue’s most celebrated French restaurants. Consequently, each position taught him something valuable. Moreover, every night in every room revealed how the wealthy wanted to feel when they dined out.
The Original Bilboquet
By 1986, Delgrange was finally ready to launch his own venture. Accordingly, he opened Le Bilboquet on East 63rd Street with just 32 seats in a 450-square-foot space. His concept was refreshingly simple: an intimate French boîte where every night felt like a family reunion.
The mix of guests was intentional from the start. Regulars sat next to royals without pretense. Similarly, celebrities shared space with chess masters. Additionally, artists dined beside editors while Europeans mingled with Americans. Everyone united in what Delgrange calls “good, fanciful fun.”
The party never stopped, even as decades passed. In 2013, overwhelming demand forced a move to a larger space on East 60th Street. Today, more than 120 seats fill nightly. Furthermore, high-profile partners joined the venture—Ron Perelman, Eric Clapton, and real estate mogul Steven Witkoff. As a result, Le Bilboquet became more than a restaurant. It transformed into an institution.
Bringing Bilbo to the Hamptons
Manhattan regulars kept asking the same question: where can we find this experience in summer? Finally, the answer arrived in June 2017 when Le Bilboquet Sag Harbor opened its doors along the waterfront.
Millions of dollars transformed the sprawling dockside location completely. Specifically, teak floors replaced whatever came before. Additionally, champagne-hued booths lined the interior beautifully. Most importantly, a deck emerged with Riviera-worthy umbrellas overlooking the marina. The effect on the town was immediate and dramatic.
Chef Laurent Tourondel, who runs nearby LT Burger, watched this transformation happen in real time. “This is the busiest I’ve seen Sag Harbor,” he observed that first summer. “Suddenly the town is on steroids.”
What Makes Le Bilboquet Sag Harbor Singular
Every French restaurant in the Hamptons claims atmosphere. However, Le Bilboquet Sag Harbor manufactures it with precision that competitors cannot replicate.
The Setting
First and foremost, the waterfront location does half the work automatically. Yachts bob gently in the marina while sunset light catches the water at exactly the right angle. As a result, the deck becomes an open-air salon where rosé flows like conversation.
Inside, the design walks a careful line between formality and ease. On one hand, it’s elegant enough to feel special. On the other hand, it’s relaxed enough to encourage lingering. Particularly noteworthy is the horseshoe-shaped main bar that anchors the room. Interestingly, it draws crowds who never make it to a table—entirely by choice.
The Food
Philippe Delgrange doesn’t believe in complicated dishes. Instead, the menu draws from the Manhattan flagship, emphasizing French comfort food elevated by quality sourcing and careful preparation.
The Cajun Chicken is Delgrange’s own recipe and remains the house signature after nearly four decades. Likewise, the tuna tartare arrives fresh and pristine every time. For traditionalists, Dover sole comes directly from Brittany. Meanwhile, the Cobb salad satisfies American palates without apology. Even the chocolate mousse converts guests who swore they’d skip dessert.
Daily specials reflect what’s available and excellent that particular day. In addition, the raw bar showcases the freshest sourced seafood from local waters. Importantly, none of it tries too hard. Consequently, all of it delivers consistently.
The Rules
Le Bilboquet Sag Harbor enforces a dress code that functions as social architecture. In essence, what you wear determines whether you enter.
The golden rule is straightforward: dress to impress. Specifically, no flip-flops are permitted under any circumstances. Similarly, no shorts, cover-ups, or swim trunks pass muster. Furthermore, no athletic wear of any kind is acceptable—this includes sweatshirts, sweatpants, and team jerseys. Additionally, no baseball caps are allowed unless you’ve just won the Super Bowl. Finally, no clothing with divisive, political, or offensive messaging will be tolerated.
These requirements aren’t arbitrary snobbery, however. Rather, they’re curation. Everyone who enters has signaled they understand the assignment. Therefore, the room maintains its quality because admission demands effort from every guest.
The Energy
On weekends, DJs transform dinner into celebration seamlessly. Typically, tables get pushed aside around 2pm on Saturdays when Euro club music takes over. At that point, the atmosphere shifts from restaurant to party without losing its sophistication.
Delgrange actively encourages table-hopping among his guests. As a result, conversation flows naturally between parties throughout the afternoon. Gradually, strangers become acquaintances over shared bottles. Eventually, acquaintances become regulars who return season after season. Clearly, the social engineering is deliberate. Ultimately, Bilbo, as insiders call it, rewards participation generously.
The Scene: Who’s at the Next Table
Le Bilboquet Sag Harbor attracted boldface names from opening night forward. Indeed, the guest list that first summer read like a benefit gala roster.
Opening Summer 2017
Billy Joel stopped by during those early weeks. Matt Lauer came through as well. Howard Stern made an appearance that got noticed. Olympic swimmer Michael Phelps showed up poolside-ready (but properly dressed). Also present was film producer Michael Lynne, who secured his regular table early. Clearly, the message was unmistakable: Sag Harbor had a new center of gravity.
Since then, the celebrity presence hasn’t faded one bit. Tom Brady, Emily Blunt, and Hugh Jackman have all been spotted at the marina-side tables in recent seasons. Importantly, the restaurant’s discretion ensures privacy without paparazzi intrusion. As a result, stars blend into the fashionable crowd rather than standing apart from it awkwardly.
The Door Policy
Stories from opening summer became legend almost immediately. For instance, the flip-flop incident made The Hollywood Reporter that July. Similarly, the couple turned away for lacking “a Hamptons look” sparked conversation for weeks afterward. These moments weren’t accidents, though. On the contrary, they were deliberate brand-building.
Simply put, not everyone gets through. That’s precisely the point. The difficulty of securing a table adds cache to the experience considerably. When you’re finally seated at Le Bilboquet Sag Harbor, you’ve passed a test others failed.
The Billionaire Backing
The investor roster signals something important about the restaurant’s position in Hamptons society. For example, Ron Perelman knows hospitality intimately—he previously co-owned East Hampton’s Blue Parrot with Renee Zellweger, Jon Bon Jovi, and Larry Gagosian. Meanwhile, Eric Clapton brings cultural credibility to the venture. Additionally, Steven Witkoff brings considerable real estate muscle.
This backing ensures the operation runs at the highest level possible. Unlike many seasonal restaurants, Le Bilboquet Sag Harbor isn’t scraping by financially. Instead, it’s built to endure for decades.
Summer 2026: What to Expect
Le Bilboquet Sag Harbor enters its tenth summer having established itself as the definitive power-lunch destination of the East End.
The Anniversary Season
Undoubtedly, a decade in Sag Harbor deserves recognition. Expect the restaurant to celebrate accordingly, though without losing its characteristic cool. Specifically, special menus, anniversary programming, and perhaps a few surprises await loyal guests throughout the season.
Philippe Delgrange himself remains the driving force behind everything. Notably, he was honored in June 2025 with L’Alliance New York’s prestigious Art de Vivre Award, recognizing his contributions to French culture in America. That momentum carries directly into 2026.
Reservations: The Strategy
Without question, Saturday lunch is the hardest table in the Hamptons. Therefore, plan accordingly and book early.
Ideally, reserve at least two weeks out for prime weekend slots. When calling, specify terrace seating explicitly—the marina view justifies the effort completely. Alternatively, Thursday and Sunday offer slightly better odds without sacrificing atmosphere significantly.
Dinner service runs strong throughout the week, certainly. However, lunch defines the Le Bilboquet Sag Harbor experience most authentically. The afternoon light, the flowing rosé, the electric social energy—everything peaks between noon and 3pm.
The Dress Code Reality
Take the dress code seriously. The stories about rejected guests are absolutely real. No one is exempt, regardless of status or connections.
Smart casual represents the minimum acceptable standard. Linen works well for the setting. A blazer never hurts your chances. Above all, leave the flip-flops at the house. If you’re unsure whether an outfit passes muster, it probably doesn’t.
The Table to Request
Request the terrace, second row specifically. This location puts you close enough to enjoy the marina view fully. Simultaneously, you’re far enough from the door to hold a private conversation. You remain visible enough to be part of the room’s energy. Yet you’re private enough to conduct business if needed.
The bar works perfectly for drinks while waiting for your table. The interior booths work well for intimate dinners on cooler evenings. Nevertheless, the terrace in daylight is ultimately why you came here.
The Vitals
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Established | 2017 (Sag Harbor); 1986 (NYC flagship) |
| Location | 1 Long Wharf, Sag Harbor |
| Cuisine | French Bistro |
| Price Point | $$$$ (Dinner for two: $200-350) |
| Reservations | Call directly: (631) 808-3767 |
| Hours | Lunch & Dinner daily (seasonal); Weekend Brunch |
| Dress Code | Strictly enforced—no flip-flops, shorts, athletic wear |
The Order
Poulet Cajun — Philippe’s personal signature recipe. This is the dish that built the empire. Order it at least once per visit.
Tuna Tartare — Fresh, clean, and precisely seasoned throughout. This remains the benchmark against which competitors are measured.
Dover Sole — Sourced directly from Brittany with classic French preparation. Worth every dollar of the premium price.
Le Cobb Salade — Grilled chicken, egg, bacon, avocado, cherry tomatoes, and blue cheese combined perfectly. Reliable excellence every time.
Chocolate Mousse — You’ll claim you’re too full for dessert. However, you’re not. Share it or don’t—either way, order it.
The Move
Arrive at 12:30pm on Saturday for optimal positioning. Earlier feels overly eager, while later risks the table you wanted going to someone else. When booking, request the terrace, second row specifically—this gives you the marina view without the foot traffic distraction.
Wear linen or something you’d be comfortable being photographed in by a stranger. Start with the tuna tartare and a glass of rosé from the French-heavy wine list. Then, let your server guide the rest of your order; they’ve accommodated every preference and dietary restriction imaginable over the years. For first-timers, the Cajun chicken is absolutely non-negotiable. Skip dessert if you must, but understand that the chocolate mousse converts even the most determined skeptics.
Most importantly, stay through the DJ transition around 2pm if you want the full experience. At that moment, the energy shifts noticeably. Tables move aside. Suddenly, lunch transforms into an event. Leave when you’re genuinely ready, not when you think you should. After all, the room rewards those who understand that lingering is the entire point.
The Timeline
1986 — Philippe Delgrange opens original Le Bilboquet on East 63rd Street, NYC, with just 32 seats
2013 — NYC flagship relocates to East 60th Street and expands dramatically to 120+ seats
2017 — Le Bilboquet Sag Harbor opens; consequently, the Sag Harbor social scene transforms overnight
2017 — Opening summer draws Billy Joel, Howard Stern, Matt Lauer, and Michael Phelps among others
2020 — Restaurant survives pandemic through outdoor dining; Delgrange notes: “New Yorkers are a different kind of breed”
2021 — Expansion continues successfully to Palm Beach, Atlanta, Dallas, and Denver
2025 — Philippe Delgrange receives L’Alliance New York’s prestigious Art de Vivre Award
2026 — Tenth anniversary summer in Sag Harbor begins with celebrations planned
The Quote
“Is there anything wrong with being a little bit elegant?” — Philippe Delgrange, Founder, responding to questions about the infamous dress code
